Page 47 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP

Textile & Handloom Exercise 1.3.28

Shawl Weaving Artisan - Power Looms and Handlooms

Hands on practice with jacquard loom and interpretation of its working

Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• provide hands-on experience on Jacquard loom operation, understanding card punching, loom setting, and
interpretation of woven fabric based on design.

Requirements

Tools/Equipment’s/Instruments
• A jacquard loom - 1 No. • Yarn (warp and weft) - as reqd.
• Design paper or graph paper - as reqd. • Sample fabric for reference (optional) - 1 No.
• Jacquard cards (punched or ready) - as reqd. • Notebook and pen for notes - 1 No.

PROCEDURE
TASK 1: Practice on jacquard loom and interpretation of its working

Step 1: Introduction to jacquard loom • Optional: If punching machine is available, let
• Briefly explain to students what jacquard loom is. trainees practice punching a simple design (like a
small motif or border).
• Discuss types: Hand jacquard, mechanical
jacquard, electronic jacquard. Step 5: Mounting cards on jacquard loom
• Talk about its application in textiles (shawls, • Show how to fix the punched cards on the Jacquard
brocades, upholstery, sarees, etc.). cylinder.

Step 2: Identification of parts • Demonstrate rotation of cards during weaving.
Take students to the loom and physically show the Step 6: Operating the loom
following parts and write its functions. (Table 1) • Demonstrate running the loom manually (or

Table 1 mechanically).
• Show how the warp threads lift according to the
Part Function design punched.
Harness cords • Trainees observe how picks are inserted and pattern
Needles formation starts.
Hooks Step 7: Observing fabric formation
Griffe (knife)
Jacquard cards • Let trainees check the woven output.
Cylinder • Ask them to compare with design draft.
Step 3: Understanding design making • Explain how changes in card punching change the
pattern on fabric.
• Introduce the concept of weaving design for Jacquard
Step 8: Interpretation and analysis
- Motif creation
Make students do the following:
- Drafting the design on graph paper (use color
coding for clarity) 1 Draw the lift plan of the design.
• Teach trainees how each square represents one end 2 Identify lifted and non-lifted warp threads row-wise.
(warp) and one pick (weft). 3 Relate Jacquard card holes with design fabric output.
Step 4: Punching of cards 4 Calculate repeat size (number of ends × number of
• Explain card punching process picks).
- Positive holes represent lifting of warp 5 Discuss defects (if any) due to wrong card punching
or lifting errors.
- Blank spaces mean no lift (down position)

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